Painting Tips, Interior

Step 1 Organizing your project

Tools and Supplies List

• brushes
• bucket/bucket grid
• caulking/caulking gun
• drop cloth
• ladder
• masking paper
• painter's tape
• paint tray/liners
• extension pole
• patching material
• protective apparel
• putty knife
• rags
• roller frame/covers
• sandpaper
• scraper 
• screwdriver
• scrub brush
• sponges

Paint Estimate
(based on a one coat application. Please note that additional paint may be required depending on your specific surface, texture, architectural design and color selected.)

Small Room 
Walls...........1 Gal.
Trim.............1 Qt.
Doors..........1 Qt.
Ceiling.........1 Qt.

Medium Room
Walls...........2 Gal.
Trim.............1 Gal.
Doors..........1 Qt.
Ceiling.........1 Gal.
 Step
Large Room
Walls...........3 Gal.
Trim.............1 Gal.
Doors..........1 Qt.
Ceiling.........2 Gal.

Step 2, Proper Preparation

Preparation is the Key to Excellent Results

• Create a workspace-Remove items from the project area such as rugs and furniture.  If removal of furniture is not possible, then place items in the center of the room and protect with plastic sheeting. 
• Remove what you can-Remove items such as outlet covers, doorknobs, pictures, hooks and nails. When removing items that have screws, tape the screws onto the back of the object.
• Protect what's left-cover floors and any items not removed (light fixtures, hinges, etc.) with protective coverings (drop cloths, plastic sheeting, masking paper, painters tape, etc.)

Repair Imperfections-cracks and peeling paint

• scrape or sand the imperfection
• apply the patching material to the affected area
• sand the finished area, blending evenly with the surface

Gaps and Seams

• remove any dust and debris
• apply caulking into the gap or seam
• allow to dry

Small holes

• apply the patching material to the affected area
• sand the finished area, blending evenly with the surface

Sanding

• scuff sand all glossy surfaces to provide proper adhesion
• remove any dust with a lightly water-dampened rag

Cleaning the project surface

• apply a cleaning solution with a sponge onto a lightly water-dampened surface
• rinse and allow to dry

Mildew cleaning

• mix 1-part multi-surface cleaner and mildew stain remover to 3-parts water.
• apply the solution with a sponge onto a lightly water-dampened surface
• rinse and allow to dry

Step 3, Applying Primer and Paint room surfaces in this order:

Priming

• Prime all uncoated surfaces, patched and repaired areas, stained areas and over existing oil-based paint. Be sure to apply a tinted primer when making a dramatic color change.
• to determine if a paint coating is oil-based, apply rubbing alcohol to a clean white cloth. Rub the cloth on the surface in a circular motion.
• If alcohol cleans the surface without softening the existing coating, the paint is oil-base3" area. If the paint softens and the color transfers onto the cloth, the coating is water-based. 

Paint room surfaces in this order:

1. ceiling
2. walls
3. window
4. doors
5. trim (include baseboard, door trim and window trim)
6. floors

TIP - use high quality nylon/polyester brushes for latex finishes

Painting Walls, Ceilings and floors

• Starting in the top corner of the project area, cut in a 3-4 inch wide area around the perimeter with a brush
• smooth out the cu-in area by lightly brushing the tip of the bristles over the newly painted area, to create a feathered edge
• place a loaded roller approximately 3-4 inches away from the area you've just cut-in
• working a 3'x3' area, roll a "W" onto the surface. This will help to place an even distribution of paint onto the wall.
• continue rolling from the top edge of the surface to the bottom
• using the "W" technique, repeat until the wall is completely covered. 
• ceilings and floors can also be painted using the instructions above

Painting trim areas

• starting at a corner, brush the paint onto the trim area
• re-load the brush approximately every 4-6 inches. 
• repeat steps until all the trim area is complete

Clean up

• for water based products clean with soap and water
• for oil-based products clean with mineral spirits
• carefully remove all protective coverings from the project area
• re-attach items such as door knobs and switch plates
• clean the outside edge/interior rim of the paint can and replace lid.
• store leftover products in a dry location, avoiding extreme temperatures

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How To Install Cabinets

 

• Tools & Materials
• Hammer
• Stud Finder
• Ladder
• 4' Level
• 2x4's and Plywood Triangles for T-brace
• Carpet Scraps for Padding on T-brace
• Keyhole Saw
• Shims
• Tape Measure
• 6" C-clamps
• Wood Screws
• Chalk Line
• Drill & Bits

Notes
Double and triple chick all measurements.
Cabinets should be level and plumb to insure doors and drawers will operate properly.
For wall cabinets use a measurement of 84" from the floor to the top of the wall cabinet.
To ease installation remove doors and drawers.

Blind Corner Wall Cabinet
36"-39" wall space
The blind corner wall cabinet may be pulled up to 3" from the corner and a filler strip should be used with the cabinet next to it. Attach the filler strip in the same manner as joining the cabinet stiles. Hang the cabinet in the same way as other wall cabinet.

Diagonal Wall Cabinet
24" wall space
This on each wall for installation. Set in place with cabinets on each side of it. Attach cabinets to the walls. Level and plumb  cabinet requires 24" of space from each wall. Filler strips are not necessary with this cabinet.

 Blind Corner Base Cabinet
36"-39" wall space
The blind corner base may be pulled up to 3" from the corner and a filler strip is used with the cabinet next to it to allow for proper door and drawer operation. Attach the cabinet in the same manner as other base cabinets.

Lazy Susan Base Cabinet
36" wall space
Allow 36" on each wall for installation. Set it in place with cabinets on each side of it. Attach cabinets to the walls. Level and plumb the Lazy Susan Base and attach to the stiles of the adjoining cabinets. To support the counter top use 1"x2" wood strips.

Beginning
After you have planned your cabinet system locate the wall studs in the area you are going to install your cabinets and mark them using a chalk line. Next mark a level line for the top of the wall cabinets and the base cabinets. Begin installation with the corner cabinets firs. Install the wall cabinets before the base cabinets because this will allow free use of your ladder and T-brace.

Wall Cabinets

1. Make a T-brace tall enough to support a wall cabinet at the height that you marked on the wall. While you and a helper steady the cabinet on top of the T-brace, level it and check that the top stays even with your guideline. 
2. Drill pilot holes through the mounting rails at the stud locations you have marked. Then drive wood screws in leaving them loose enough to allow for adjustment. Next use a level to see if the cabinet front is plumb. If it is not you can use shims to bring the cabinet into plumb. After making sure the cabinet is level and plumb fasten the top and bottom screws securely.
3. Place the next cabinet into position using the T-brace. Use C-clamps to clamp the stiles of the 2 cabinets together and countersink 2 wood screws into the stiles. Make sure the cabinet is level and plumb. Then screw the cabinet to the wall through the mounting rails and into the studs. Repeat the steps with the remaining wall cabinets. Make sure they are level, plum and that all screws have been tightened.

 Base Cabinets

1. Place the first cabinet into position according to your plan. Use your level to see if the cabinet is both level and plumb. If it is not use shims on the floor to bring the cabinet level and shims between the cabinet and the wall to bring the cabinet plumb. A wooden block can be used to avoid damage to the floor or wall when driving shims. (Drill pilot holes through the mounting rails at the stud locations you have marked. Then drive wood screws in leaving them loose enough to allow for adjustment. After making sure the cabinet is still level and plumb fasten the top and bottom screws securely.)
2. Place the next cabinet into position and level it so that it lines up with the first cabinet and with your guidelines marked on the wall. Use C-clamps to clamp the stiles of the 2 cabinets together and countersink 2 wood screws into the stiles. Make sure the cabinet is level and plumb as you did before. Then screw the cabinet to the wall through the mounting rails and into the studs. Repeat these steps with the remaining base cabinets. 
3. If you are not using a special corner cabinet, use filler strips at the corner to allow enough space for doors and drawers to operate smoothly. Join the filler strips in the same manner as you do the stiles of the cabinets. To support counter top, attach 1"x2" wood strips to the wall along your guidelines so they are level with your cabinets. 
4. After all cabinets are in place make sure they are still level and plumb. if necessary adjust your shims, then make sure all mounting screws have been tightened. At this point use you keyhole saw to trim the shims even with the cabinet. 
5. Place your counter top into position and make sure it is held tightly against the wall to insure the best fit. Then anchor the counter to the cabinets using the corner braces provided on each cabinet. Be careful not to screw too far or use screws that are too long because you may damage the counter top. 

Finishing
Unfinished Cabinets

• Fill screw holes made in the face frame stiles with wood putty then sand the surface.
• Attach veneered and panels to exposed sides of cabinets with glue or nails. Some trimming may be needed.
• Attach doors and insert drawers into cabinets.
• Attach Toe Kick trim with glue or nails.
• Add Shoe mouldings and Scribe moulding to conceal gaps and shims along floor and walls.
• Sand cabinets and prep for stain. Use a tack cloth to thoroughly wipe the surface and remove dust and any excess glue. A surface that is improperly prepared will not stain correctly.
• Stain cabinets to match your decor. 

 Finished Cabinets

• Attach doors and insert drawers into cabinets.
• Attach Toe Kick trim with glue or nails.
• Add Shoe mouldings and Scribe moulding to conceal gaps and shims along floor and walls.
• Finished Crown moulding can be attached to wall cabinets with nails.

Popcorn ceilings

Back in the day contractors loved popcorn for ceiling texture. It was easy and very forgiving in covering all kinds of imperfections. They simply nailed the drywall up and put a quick tape finish over the joints and then coated the ceilings with a heavy acoustic finish. Very quick easy and profitable but for most homeowners very tacky and unattractive. It also makes your ceilings seem low and claustrophobic. Now days they take the time to texture ceilings nicely.

So what can someone do about their old popcorn ceiling? Fortunately there are cures and very nice and quick fixes without removing all of the drywall. Here is a popcorn removal I did about a month ago. The project covered over 1000 square feet of ceiling and took 3days. The client had me remove the popcorn, texture, prime and paint the ceilings as well as repaint all the walls.

Home Maintenance

When you buy a car you get a manual that most people at best just put in the glove box and never see it again unless there is a problem or they have to reach for the registration when getting a ticket by one of our finest. When you buy a home new or used you really don't get a manual per say. Some builders have a representative that walks through the home with you in a short meeting called a "walk through". You are expected to remember everything that the representative told you.

Chances are though that the representative knows little about all aspects of construction and basically just walks you through the home showing you the paint, sinks and floors looking for things the new owner is displeased with and wants fixed prior to the closing of the sale. What they fail to do is advise the new owner of the different maintenance items that keeps a home running in tip top shape. A good builder will also give you a handbook that shows a new owner how to do the task needed of them.

Here are a few thins most new owners over look which cause problems within the first couple of years or sooner.

Did you know that you need to drain and flush your water heater once per year?

There are additives and other chemicals in our water systems which build up in the base of the water heater tank and cause the efficiency of the appliance to drop dramatically. You use more electricity for electric water heaters or more gas for the gas ones not to mention the extra water usage.

How do I drain my water heater you ask?

It's simple. First if it is electric, unplug the water heater. If it is gas turn the gas off. There is a valve at the gas line goin ginto the water heater near the bottom. Next, there is also a lever at the top of the water heater that is parallel with the plumbing connecting to the top of it. Turn it 1/4 turn until it is perpendicular to the water lines. (some older water heaters have a round knob that needs to be turned until it stops turning) This turns the water off to the water heater. Next, there is a hose connection at the base of the water heater. Connect a hose to it and run it to a tub or outside location. Then turn the valve at the hose connection on and the water will drain out. Now to flush the water heater go back to that knob or lever at the top and turn it on for a few minutes. Water will flow through the water heater cleansing the system. After you have done all of this you then close the valve at the hose, disconnect the hose and relight the pilot light (instructions should be on the water heater for relighting the pilot light) or plug the water heater back in. Leave the valve at the top of the water heater open. Congratulations! That's it you're done! Other than waiting for hot water which will take anywhere from 30 minutes to and hour.

Do you know you are suppose to change your furnace filters every month?

There is a small compartment located near the furnace blower. In this compartment is the filter. There are many sizes so before you rush out and buy one check the size you need. They have many types as well. Some very basic and cheap and others that can be reused by simply washing them out and replacing them. Again this should be done on a monthly basis even in the summer months. Your A/C uses the furnace to push cold air through the home just as the furnace pushes hot air through it.

Think your dyer is installed correctly?

Check the manual for the appliance. Most manufacturers will void your warranty if it is not installed correctly. Believe it or not most builders even do it wrong. A dryer can only have two ninety degree bends in the vent pipe. It also is can not o for a distance longer than twenty feet horizontally or vertically. The termination cap (the cover at the end either on the roof or at the outside wall) also has to be a certain type. You may need to clean this out from time to time as well. It is encouraged that you clean the whole line one per year.

Why is my carpet looking so worn out?

You need to vacuum and believe this rake your carpet once per week. Sounds strange but they actually sell carpet rakes. These keep the fibers from being tangled and having that smashed look. One other tip for those getting new carpet, Do Not Settle on the thin cheap pad. Padding is like a homes foundation it supports the things on top of it. Pay for the better padding. It'll save you in the long run and save your carpets from looking so worn.

Do you have a ceiling fan?

Did you know there is a little switch on the motor that changes the direction your fan blades turn? In the winter months you need to have the fan push the upward and in the summer months it should pull the air downward. You will know which is which by the feel of the air flow. If it is pushing upward the air feels softer as if it is hitting the ceiling first and then being pushed to the area below. By changing the fan directions you will save on energy cost.

Ok one last one for now....

Irrigation systems.

In southern California we have gardeners that come around once per week to take care of our lawns. Elsewhere we do it ourselves. Either way we all overlook a key component of our irrigation systems. Gardeners usually only mow and blow the clippings away. What most fail to do is check the sprinklers and valves. This is simple to do. On the irrigation timer there is a setting called manual or test. Use this to run the system on a one minute cycle. Use some kind of flag or marker and as the system runs mark each sprinkler that is not working properly. Chances are it is the filter that is clogged. Once the system finishes o back to the sprinkler that is not functioning correctly. You will need something pointy to pull the sprinkler head up out of the whole. They sell tools to do this but they are not required. Pull the head up and hold it tightly. I use vice grips with a light hold a the base to keep it from retracting. Next you'll see a top that can be unscrewed from the head. inside this you will find a replaceable filter usually blue in color. If they aren't to bad they can just be washed out. Once you put it back in replace the head and let the sprinkler retract. Run your system on test once again. Your problem should be fixed in most cases. You may need to make an adjustment to the spray however. This is done two by doing two things. One turn the head so the spray is going in the right direction and two if the pressure is to high or to low you can adjust the screw that is on top of the head in the center. This increases or decreases the pressure so that the water only sprays where it is needed in turn saving water cost.

One last thing you may want to do is check the timing on the stations located on the irrigation timer. Winter months require less watering and summer months need more. Again this could save you some serious water cost.

I hope these pointer have given you the guidance you need and help you save the things you spent some much money on. Some people like pictures to see what I am referring to in the tutorials i just gave so I apologize that I did not have the time to add them in this blog but if you Google the questions above you will find other sites that do offer these for you.

Thanks for reading.

Safety First

All in a days work

Patch work

Drywall patch work in progress where a leak had occurred.
After the repairs are complete you will never know anything ever happened.

Custom work

Basement finish with bar

Custom office desk

Dining Room

Modest Kitchen

Garden of Eden?

Planters for new garden
All in a days work

Plants and vegetables by weeks end

Katrina Relief

Day 1 with volunteers

Day 2 ready for roof trusses

Day 4 exterior finish and roofing

When your heart is in the right place a lot sure gets done in a hurry

Remodeling

This was an old single sided fireplace that separated two rooms

Decisions, decisions? ugh...more decisions.

When building a new home the parties involved have over 100,000 decisions to make before the dream is realized. Compared to the standard remodel or addition all parties involved will make about 10,000 decisions.So as you can see building a home can be an overwhelming task if you are not prepared.

Here is a list of a few things you will need to consider and choose for the look of your new home.

Items to Select for Your New Home

• Exterior & interior Paint
• Interior Trim

- Style

- Color: White or Stained

• Windows
• Front Door

- Door Hardware

• Garage

- Keyless Entry

• Flooring

- Hardwood/Carpet/Stone

- Location of Each

• Bedrooms

- Carpet/Light Fixtures/Ceiling Fan

• Kitchen

- Cabinets: Wood Type & Stain

- Countertops: Color & Type of Edging

- Flooring – Wood Type & Stain

- Hardware – Knobs and/or Pulls & Color

- Sink Color & Mounting Style

- Faucet Style & Finish

- Color of Appliances

• Bathrooms

- Cabinets: Wood Type & Stain

- Countertops: Color & Type of Edging

- Flooring – Wood Type & Stain

- Hardware – Knobs and/or Pulls & Color

- Fixture Style & Finish

- Shower Door – Type of Glass & Trim Color

- Jetted or Soaker Tub

- Sink Shape

- Oval, Elongated or Elongated & Tall Toilet

• Fireplace

- Type of Stone/Mantel/Hearth/Opening

- Blower

• Interior & Exterior Lights
• Placement of Extra Electrical Outlets
• Placement of Cable & Phone Outlets
• Security System
• Audio System
• Air Conditioning
• Air Purifier
• Humidifier
• Tree Selection
• If basement is being finished, selection of flooring, hardware, paint, etc.

***This is not a complete list of selections, however, it will give you an idea of the complexity of the selection process. Please allow 4 – 6 hours for this process.

You bought a home and now what

A Quick overview of Your New Home Buying Experience

Purchasing a new home is a very exciting experience. It is also a complex experience, with many details to be decided and arranged.

The chronological list that follows outlines the typical events that take place in the purchase of a new home. It is vital that all items are completed quickly so that your home can be built in a timely manner. Expect this building process to take 4-8 months allowing for weather and any other unforeseen factors.

• Contract Signing The home buying journey begins by signing a purchase agreement at the Sales Office. This requires an earnest deposit. At this time you will receive a color scheme book from the sales office so you can begin the selection of the exterior paint on your home and a list of what items you will be selecting. Please feel free to drive the area to view other homes.

• Mortgage Application Please provide sales staff with a letter of loan approval within 30 days of contract signing.

• Pre-Construction Meeting At this time a Representative will contact you to set up an appointment to meet with your builder. The builder can answer any questions regarding modifications or structural changes to your floor plan and he can price these items for you. You may be required to pay a non-refundable processing fee to obtain pricing. This fee will go toward the price of your home. The builder will discuss the construction process and have you sign off on your plans. Please allow 2 hours for this meeting.

• Material Options Meeting Once you have completed the above, a Rep. will contact you to meet at the Design Center to begin selecting stone, carpet, cabinets, etc. for your new home. This is an exciting time-consuming process. Please allow 4 – 6 hours for this meeting. If you have furniture or drapery fabrics to coordinate with, it will be helpful to bring them with you. We also recommend that you spend some time looking at the model homes to observe features that are of interest to you. This will allow you to view many of the options and materials available. A deposit for the selected upgrades will be due at this time.

• Ground Breaking Ceremony This meeting will be with you, your Representative, and the builder to present your lot layout as discussed in the pre-construction meeting. Please allow 45 minutes for this meeting. All other Visits must be scheduled 48 hours in advance with your Rep. for your safety during construction.

• Pre-Drywall Meeting This is the first of two construction meetings with the Rep., the builder and you. The builder and Rep. will review with you the location of cable and phone outlets as well as address any other concerns while on site. Please allow 1 hour for this meeting.

• Final Orientation Meeting At least three weeks before closing your Rep. will contact you for a home orientation meeting conducted by your builder. He will explain the warranty program. Please allow 2 hours for this orientation. Right before closing there will be a warranty walk-thru.

Congratulations on the purchase of your new home!

Some small projects

A new entry door where there once was a small window.

Need a little shade cover?

Remove that old rotten lanai and add on?

Sunroom

Remove the lanai

Frame the new addition

Glass doors on all side for maximum light

Looking through the glass

Cozy sunroom

Tropical project

Brazilian Walnut decking with log railings on a project in Hawaii.















Native Koa log used for railings and post